Ablutions

The Indonesian kamar mandi — literally "bathing chamber" — conventionally combines toilet, bath and washing in one room. I've rarely found it otherwise in three decades here. What does turn up as a stand-alone is the public sink, positioned wherever hand-washing might be needed — a restaurant, a hallway, an office lobby — often with no means of drying your hands, so check first.

Looking for a toilet, just ask for one. Indonesians find the Western habit of euphemism faintly odd: ask for a "bathroom" and you may be told there isn't one (most public places don't provide baths); ask for a "washroom" and you'll be pointed to a basin. Ask for the toilet, or follow the signage.

What you find depends on where you are. Malls, airports, hotels and newer apartments in Jakarta, Surabaya and Bali's tourist areas now run largely to Western-style sit-down toilets, sometimes alongside squat versions in the same block. Squat toilets remain the norm in older public buildings, rural areas and many warungs — footrests mark them out; roll your trousers up and mind your footing. Either way, don't expect the plumbing to cope with paper: a bin beside the toilet is standard even where paper is supplied.

Water is the default cleaning method, delivered nowadays more often by a handheld bidet-style spray hose than the old dipper and bucket, though both remain in use. This is a hygiene custom practised across Indonesia's religious communities — Muslim, Hindu, Christian alike — not, as folklore has it, a specifically Quranic requirement. Carry your own tissue as backup, particularly outside the main cities.

Bathing, the mandi, still commonly means a tiled cistern (bak mandi) and a plastic dipper, though showers are now standard in newer housing and hotels. Splash from the dipper; never climb into the cistern. Indonesians bathe several times a day — a habit newcomers to the climate adopt fast, and gladly.

Contributor: patrick

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