Things to Keep in Mind
Indonesia is roughly 87% Muslim, per the latest civil registration data - a shade under the 90% often quoted, but still an overwhelming majority. The remainder splits mainly between Protestants, Catholics, Hindus, Buddhists and Confucianists, the six religions the state officially recognises. Bali remains solidly Hindu; North Sulawesi and the Papua region - now six provinces (Papua, West Papua, South Papua, Central Papua, Highland Papua and Southwest Papua) following the 2022 administrative split - are predominantly Christian. Everywhere else runs Muslim, often layered with older local belief. A working knowledge of Islamic practice, the five daily prayers, Ramadan, the main holidays, will serve you well, as will the standard greeting exchange: 'Assalamu'alaikum' answered with 'Wa'alaikumsalam'.
Government is secular; the country is not run on religious law, Aceh aside. Aceh's special autonomy, granted by a 2006 law following the Helsinki peace accord, permits it to enforce sharia criminal law (Qanun Jinayat), including public caning for offences such as gambling, alcohol and unmarried closeness between the sexes. This applies to Muslims; foreign nationals are formally exempt, though modest dress and behaviour are still expected, and enforcement continues into 2026. Separately, and nationwide, Indonesia's new Criminal Code, in force since January 2026, criminalises cohabitation and adultery outside marriage for the first time beyond Aceh. In practice it is a complaint-only offence: police act only if a spouse, parent or child of the accused files one, and Bali's government has said it will not be checking tourists' marital status. Worth knowing, not worth losing sleep over.
Indonesia is a hierarchical society, and age and position command real deference. Greet the eldest or most senior person in a room first; use Bapak or Ibu rather than first names until invited otherwise; expect a relaxed approach to time, 'jam karet', rubber time, once a relationship is established. A vague or indirect answer is usually politeness protecting harmony, not evasion. Work out early who in your neighbourhood, the local RT/RW chief, the cleric, is owed deference, and extend it. When in doubt, a genuine smile and simple courtesy cover most gaps.
Handshakes happen constantly. On entering a room, shake hands with the oldest or most senior person first, then everyone else; the same on the way out. The Indonesian handshake is commonly lighter than the Western grip - a hard squeeze reads as aggressive, not confident, so don't mistake a gentle touch for weakness.
Hospitality has its own choreography. If guests call, offer food or drink; the first offer will likely be refused out of courtesy, so ask again. Even a glass of water, bottled, always, counts as proper refreshment. Serve at room temperature unless asked otherwise, and don't let guests eat or drink until you've said 'silakan minum' (please, drink) or 'silakan makan' (please, eat). Visitors will often wait at the gate rather than presume to enter uninvited; say 'silakan masuk' (please, come in), and expect the same reflexive first refusal before they do.
Privacy works differently here, particularly on Java's crowded ground. Neighbours take a close interest in each other's business, and gossip is unapologetic entertainment. As a newcomer, expect your comings and goings to be discussed, and expect to be asked things a Westerner would consider intrusive. It's curiosity, not rudeness.
Children are adored, rarely scolded, never given a dirty look in public. Compliment a mother on her child and you'll get the warmth Indonesia is known for. One rule worth remembering: don't ruffle a child's hair. A gentle stroke is fine; hair is considered close to sacred.
The essential point holds regardless of what else changes: Indonesians like foreigners and forgive mistakes readily. You are the guest; they hold the local knowledge. Keep that straight, avoid arrogance, and lapses will be met with humour rather than offence. The strangeness fades fast - most newcomers feel at home within a couple of months.
Contributor: patrick
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